A Study Of The Production Of Clothing Suitable For Men's Non-Traditional Stature

This article is about the study of the production of clothing suitable for men's non-traditional statures, which analyzes the types of statues and their deviations from the standard form. in addition, the article describes the methods of designing clothes for men with an unusual type of figure using examples.


INTRODUCTION
Industrial products are made only for standard shapes. But in life there are abnormalities. These include bent and arrogant, lowshouldered and high-shouldered types. For them, one of the dimensions that characterizes the stature is the deviation from the norm of torso position or shoulder height. Different schemes of body structure types have been developed. One of them is used for men's body shapes, the other for women and the third for children's body shapes. V.V. Bunak divides the body structure of men into seven types. Three of these are the main type: the thoracic type, the muscular type, and the abdominal type (Fig. 28). The thoracic species is less obese, the muscles are less developed, the thorax is flat, the abdomen is stretched, and the body is curved. In muscular type skin, the fat layer is moderate, the muscles are moderate or highly developed, the chest is cylindrical in shape, and the normal, back shape is straight. The abdomen is characterized by an abundance of a layer of fat on the skin of the abdomen, the muscles are moderately or underdeveloped, the chest is conical, the abdomen is bulging, the back shape is bulging.
In science, the human body is studied in the vertical position of the body, in a calm and upright position. Being in a vertical position is understood as a calm state, i.e. the body expends less energy when the muscles and body are in balance. This condition is also referred to in the scientific literature as "natural state", "first state", "rectified state". Body refers to the individual characteristics of the human body configuration in a natural ("calm") state, in which minimal energy is expended to keep the body in balance.
There are different individual features of the body structure among people, i.e. different statures. In any posture, the human body is in balance. This is achieved by means of adaptation of its various parts. Each body is characterized by a specific shape of the spine and body, the position of the head and limbs. The main characteristics that characterize the body are the spine and body shape.
L.P. Nikolaev's proposal to classify the body aroused more interest in the garment industry. Accordingly, it comes in five types of stature: normal, straight, curved, lordosis, and kyphosis. Figure 34 shows the body contour lines typical of the male figure in the sagittal plane. The normal body is characterized by a flat curvature of the spine. The straight body is characterized by a weak curvature of all sections of the spine. The curved body is characterized by a more forward bending of the neck lordosis and a decrease of the lumbar lordosis (the back is round in shape). A.P. According to Nikolaev, such postures are more common in the elderly. The lordotic body is characterized by a strong development of lumbar lordosis and a weak development of cervical lordosis. Kyphosis is characterized by a sharp exacerbation of chest kyphosis. According to the classification of the Polish researcher N.Volyansky, the body is divided into three groups, and these groups are divided into three types, respectively. In a body that deviates from the typical structure, the front-back and side balances of the garment design are disturbed. This in turn causes a number of defects in the placement of clothing. Indicates that each constructive line changes its position according to the dimensional change. For example, in contrast to a normal static fit constriction, the back piece is longer than the front piece in a bent shape fit construction. But the opposite changes are observed in the construction corresponding to the arrogant frame. The front and rear balances of the structure change as a result of a change in the position of the front and rear pieces collar line. Its value decreases in the construction of bent statues, and increases in arrogant statues. In the construction of curved trunks, this point is pushed in the opposite direction.
The design of the details of the men's suit includes the middle line of the back of the jacket, the back of the jacket and the front lines of the forehead, the shoulder lines, the front line lines, the front lines of the sleeves, and unification of the elbows, side and white lines of the pants caught. Figure .1 shows a schematic of the preparation of the basic model of the details of the men's suit. Just as the bodies of men in different age groups are different, so are the bodies of children in different age groups. Therefore, as well as in the creation of the model, pattern, design of clothing, as well as in the reproduction of patterns should be based on the standard body, which belongs to a certain full size group.